Facts, Not Fiction

 
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    Alex Honnold on El Cap
    #1
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    I saw "Free Solo" two weekends ago. Alex fell off the two crux moves any number of times while climbing roped, and they showed Tommy Caldwell falling off one of the cruxes while roped. Caldwell is one of the best El Cap climbers ever, having free-climbed at least one route there (meaning, with a rope and gear for protection, but not advancing up the route by use of the gear, just with hands and feet and one's body). I reckon if Honnold soloed (no rope, no gear) Freerider (the route he climbed) ten times, he would die on six or seven of those attempts.

    While I understand the feeling of moving over rock, up a route, unencumbered by a rope and gear, it's not worth it. And I call BS on the thing all these folks say, "I feel most alive when I'm soloing" (or wingsuit flying, or whatever). If that's the case, one needs some therapy to feel alive at other times. Like when they're bored and cleaning the lint out of their navel.
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    #2
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    Jim Collins supposedly had fallen 5 of the 6 times climbing the route doing the crux on the Naked Edge before free soloing. And only did it because he was bummed out after breaking up with his girl friend and thought what the hell....

    It's pretty nuts as you say ...and it eventually catches up....John Bachar was an even bigger solo star 30 years ago and he died in a fall.

    And wing soloing is even nuttier..... ask Dean Potter.
    Last edited by Conor Dary; 02-26-2019 at 10:41 PM.
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    #3
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    Great movie. BAT SHIT CRAZY.
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    #4
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    ...Free soloists make mistakes and fall and die. Holds break. Storms come in. It happens. Often. Even the greats aren’t exempt: Jimmy Jewel, a renowned British soloist of the 1980s, fell to his death in 1987 while climbing unroped up a moderate route at Tremadog in running shoes and his backpack, taking a shortcut back to the local climber’s hut. Derek Hersey, who could more often be seen in Eldorado Canyon climbing without a rope than with one, died on Yosemite’s Steck-Salathé in 1993, likely the result of rain-slicked rock. And John Bachar, with Peter Croft perhaps the name most associated with free soloing in the 1980s and ‘90s, fell to his death in 2009 while climbing unroped at the Dike Wall near Mammoth, California, the exact cause of his fall unknown.

    The bottom line is, free soloing sucks. It’s lethal, there’s no room for error, and your life can go from “Here I am having a great day out, moving over stone getting some mileage in, just me and the rock,” to “Oh fuck, oh shit, oh God, oh–” BLAM. DEAD.

    It’s stupid.

    https://www.climbing.com/people/crus...ver-it-anyway/
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    #5
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    ....The concern is not just for people like Honnold — whose nerve and skill borders on superhuman — but for the young climbers who inevitably try to follow in their footsteps.

    “The part that bothers me the most is the younger guys who see these guys and try to emulate them,” said Charles “Butch” Farabee, of Tucson, a former Yosemite ranger who co-wrote the book “Off the Wall: Death in Yosemite,” and keeps a database of all 1,839 deaths that have occurred in the park. “I’ve never had any issue with people climbing, the part that concerns me is putting the rescuers at risk. Somebody has to go up and clean up the mess.”

    The warning signs have been mounting over the past few years. Five people have died in climbing accidents on El Capitan since 2013. In all, Farabee said, 31 of the 120 climbers who have died in the park since 1905 have died on the famous granite monolith. He said 23 were killed in falls, including a rescuer who rappelled off his rope, two were hit by rockfalls and six people died from hypothermia.


    https://www.seattletimes.com/nation-...mite-climbers/
    Last edited by Conor Dary; 02-26-2019 at 11:13 PM.
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    #6
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    Just a heads-up - Free Solo is on National Geographic channel tonight(3/3) @ 9 PM ET, as well as next Sunday(3/10) morning.
    There are no strings on me
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    #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by bhall
    BAT SHIT CRAZY.
    Quote Originally Posted by Conor Dary
    It's stupid
    These two quotes sum it up.
    "A beautiful theory killed by an ugly fact."
    by Thomas Henry Huxley
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    #8
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    Here's what can happen when one solos. Watch the video. Lucky he's alive.

    https://www.climbing.com/news/the-fallen-soloist/
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    #9
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    Wow....he is told it is 5.13....and little climbing experience....and thinks no problem....the height of lunacy....
    Last edited by Conor Dary; 06-11-2019 at 07:20 PM.
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    #10
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    At least if you're soloing it would pay to have a harness and a couple of slings with biners to tie in and call for help when things are tough...downclimbing is a lot harder ....Charlie Fowler did something like that when he soloed the Diamond back in 1978...
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